A Good Book and a Cup of Tea
By Stef S., Tea Consultant
“The first cup moistens the throat;
The second shatters all feelings of solitude;
The third cup cleans digestion;
The fourth induces perspiration;
With the fifth cup, the body sharpens, crisp;
And the sixth cup leads to heaven;
The seventh cup sits steaming… it needn’t be drunk
From head to feet one rises to the abode of the immortals.”
– Lu Tong, 795–835 CE
Hundreds of years ago during the Tang Dynasty of ancient China, this famous verse singing the praises of tea was penned by Lu Tong, a poet who devoted his life to the study of tea culture. Little is known about him, but his writing is a timeless window to the tea of the past. In the Tang Dynasty, tea was enjoyed by members of society from all social classes. It was considered a medicinal beverage at the time, but it also served as a balm for the spirit. Does this sound familiar? Tea’s role as an emotionally healing beverage, depicted in this poem written centuries ago, persists today. How many times has a warm cup of tea consoled you or lifted you up at the end of a long day? “The sixth cup leads to heaven” — what tea lover is unable to relate to the transcendent, giddy feeling of drinking several cups of tea in one sitting? When we read about tea and interact with art alike, we feel a deeper connection with the past. We invite you to join us as we explore tea history and discuss some of tea’s most famous appearances in literature.
While international trade brought tea to Great Britain in the 1660s, it was not until the mid-nineteenth century that today’s “afternoon tea” caught on with the general population. At first, it was a luxurious social event popular with nobility, but it soon caught on with middle-class society and spread like wildfire through every walk of life. A variety of tempting cakes, sandwiches and sweets served with tea allowed hosts to show off their wealth, exhibiting expensive butter, refined flour and sugar that only those with ample money to spare could afford. An impressive spread indicated a household of noble birth, while a moderate offering was often featured in middle-class fare. Afternoon tea quickly became a symbol of class, and during this time it was featured in fiction by authors like Jane Austen in the 1810s as an entertaining and often humorous portrayal of day-to-day life. Because afternoon tea in the countryside was an occasion that brought individuals together from various rungs of the social ladder, it was featured in situations that represented the societal commentaries that Jane Austen’s novels are best known for. In fact, tea is at the social center of almost every novel, featured in Mansfield Park, Emma, Persuasion and the most well-known Pride and Prejudice. In one memorable example, the servile snob Mr. Collins humbly brags that his employer, Lady Catherine, has invited him for tea at her estate, Rosings Park. Unfortunately, Austen favors dialogue over action and description and never mentions what kind of tea her characters are drinking, so it would be difficult to simulate Lady Catherine’s tea. We do know, however, that the tea industry was just getting started in India at the time of Austen’s death, so she likely would have enjoyed a China Congou, like our Fujian Minhong Gongfu Congou (page 48), or a green Hyson, like our Young Hyson Imperial Organic (page 48). In a private letter, she once complemented a friend on taking “no cream in her tea,” which implies that Jane Austen took her tea plain.
Afternoon teas for country gentlefolk aside, tea taxation was reduced in 1784, which increased tea consumption over time and provided the less fortunate with a pick-me-up at the end of a day of grueling work. Charles Dickens’ characters of the 1840s through 1860s drank tea all the time, as mentioned in The Old Curiosity Shop, Great Expectations, David Copperfield, Bleak House and A Tale of Two Cities, among others. Its frequent inclusion implies its constant presence in everyday life and perhaps in Dickens’ life as well. It was around the mid-nineteenth century that Indian tea finally became popular in England, so Dickens would have had the chance to enjoy a hearty cup of Assam, like our Dejoo Estate TGFOP (page 48).
Of course, an exploration of tea in literature would be incomplete without mention of the Mad Hatter’s Tea Party, published in Alice in Wonderland in 1865, a satire of seemingly pointless teatime chatter with no deeper meaning. “Why is a raven like a writing desk?” the Mad Hatter asks Alice, as an invitation to polite conversation through a frustrating riddle with no answer.
Even the celebrated consulting detective of 221B Baker Street, who stepped onto the page in the 1890s, occasionally partook in a cup of tea. Although, like the others, Arthur Conan Doyle never specifies what kind, we can do a little sleuthing of our own. We can deduce from the fact that Sherlock Holmes enjoyed the occasional luxury such as a night at the opera, dining out at a fancy restaurant or appreciating a bottle of fine wine that he would have had no problem spending his hard-earned shillings on an indulgence like tea, now and again. Tea with special flavor was becoming all the rage in the nineteenth century for those who could afford it, and one of the most popular varieties was Lapsang Souchong, a black tea smoked over pine needles to achieve a richly scented, mellow flavor. Holmes’ fondness for pipe tobacco would have made him the perfect candidate to appreciate this timeless smoky tea, favored by many. Our Baker Street Afternoon Blend (page 48) features Lapsang Souchong, alongside Keemun and Darjeeling, aptly named in tribute to this beloved character.
Tea appears in so many beloved classic novels that it is impossible to mention them all! But what about books written on the subject of tea? A good place to start is one of the most unique and treasured, The Book of Tea, written by Okakura Kakuzo– in 1906. Okakura Kakuzo– was an accomplished Japanese scholar and art critic who helped preserve Japanese customs during the Meiji Restoration era of Japanese history, when the popularity of Western sensibilities in Japan threatened to encroach on many traditional aspects of Japanese art and culture, including the Japanese idea of tea. In his book, Kakuzo– lovingly postulates the philosophy of “teaism,” which argues that "tea is more than an idealization of the form of drinking; it is a religion of the art of life.” In essence, Kakuzo– believed in tea as an experience and lifestyle. While the Romans glorified wine by worshipping the wine god Bacchus, Kakuzo– asks, “Why not consecrate ourselves to the Queen of the camellias?” In other words, why don’t we worship the goddess of tea? While Austen and Dickens incorporated tea into their art, Kakuzo– insisted that tea was art.
So, the next time you steep your morning cup, take a moment to appreciate the craftsmanship of the leaves, the beautiful color of the liquor and what your daily tea moment means to you. There is a whole world of tea literature out there waiting for you to explore. Make yourself a cup and discover the exciting elements of tea in the literary arts. Nothing quite goes with a cup of tea like a good book!